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DNA107.004
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1994-02-06
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304 lines
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CAR MODIFICATIONS FOR HACKERS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Written 1-29-94
by
Arclight
Welcome back everyone! DNA is alive and well, after PaZ's mysterious
disappearance into a Black Hole. The subject of this feature is car
modifications, simple and inexpensive things you can add to give your car
what it needs to really say "Fuck You." Several categories, including
noisemakers, alarms, lighting, ECM, communications, and performance/
reliability enhancements will be covered. Each will be covered individually,
in a thorough, do-it-yourself treatment.
Materials
~~~~~~~~~
It is recommended that before trying to do anything, especially to
the electrical systems, you have on hand the following:
o Multi-Tester or test light, to check continuity and +12v/Ground
o Heavy-Duty Wire cutters/crimpers
o Selection of wire crimps & taps, for reliable connections
o Nylon Twist-Ties, for wire harnesses
o Assorted Screwdrivers, Sockets, pliers, etc for removing panels,
access, etc.
General Tips
~~~~~~~~~~~~
When working on vehicle electrical, you should be aware that shorted
circuits can draw in excess of 300 AMPS of current, enough to INSTANTLY
melt wires, start fires, and fry delicate electronics. For this reason, it
is always a good idea to disconnect the (+) terminal of the battery before
tapping the fuse box or other direct sources of power. This is also a good
reason to use only high-quality crimp connections in all work. Twisting two
wires together and wrapping them in black tape will NOT cut it. I have
personally seen peoples' cars catch fire due to inadequate wiring. For this
reason, be sure to use good connectors, insulate everything well, fuse
EVERYTHING at the power source, and don't hesitate to use a larger guage
of wire than you think you will need. Also, wires should be run out of the
way and away from hot surfaces such as the engine block. If you are worried
about heat, it is best to use TEFLON insulated wire. Wires can be routed in
existing conduits, or twist-tied to existing harneses or structures. When
done correctly, your wiring is just as good as the factory wiring, and can
look just as professional. Remember: take your time and work like a
professional. You can buy or check out books that deal with wiring
specifics and vehicle electrical. Auto parts stores carry books as well as
most necessary tools and supplies.
Systems
~~~~~~~
The following are different types of modifications, with installation
details, applications, and tips for use.
---
-/-/-Lighting-/-/-
There are many things that can be done with vehicle lighting to improve
convenience and add special effects. Auxiliary lighting systems include:
o Bumper-Mounted driving lights. These provide lots of extra light on the
road, cut through haze, and have the added advantage of allowing you to
drive without parking lights, making you very hard to track during
nighttime pursuits. They can be installed in an afternoon, with
minimal tools. Installion includes mounting the lights and tapping into a
power wire. Driving Lights are available in the $25-50 price range at
better auto parts stores.
o Spotlights. These are hand-held police type spotlights that put out
250,000-1,000,000 candlepower. They are useful for checking out things on
the roadside, reading signs, blinding people, signalling, and spotlighting
pedestrians. They cost from $15 to $50.00 and plug into the cigarette
lighter slot.
o Side-to-Side flashing headlights. These are especially good for quick
passes of asshole drivers who refuse to pull over. (Watch out for cops!)
The circuit can be found in the "Bosch Relay Applications" book, which
is available at the parts counters of electronics stores, or directly
from Bosch. Basically, you have single pole, double-throw relay, which is
wired up to alternately power one headlight, then other, with a
flasher-cicuit pulsing it. Parts cost is under $15.00 for most cars.
o Special/Hazard lights. Many auto parts stores sell small, colored
backup-type lights. They come in Blue, Amber, and sometimes Red. They can
be mounted behind the grille and wiried up with a circuit similar to the
above for side-to side flashing. They can also be hooked up to the hazard
light circiut with taps. These are good for confusimg people and drawing
attention. Prices vary, but a set of two lights usually costs around $8.00.
o Kill Switches. This category includes switches that allow you to
selctively kill certain parts of your lighting system. This could include
a switch to kill one headlight, to change the appearance of your car at
night, or a switch to kill your tail lights without turning off your
headlights. This "stealth mode" option is useful for nighttime chases.
-/-/-Communications-/-/-
This category includes radios, CB's, Public address (PA) systems, and
other signalling devices. Many choices are available in different price
ranges and for different applications.
o Citizen's Band Radios. (CB's) These radios operate in the 27MhZ band,
and give you 40 channels of voice communication. (120 with the more
expensive sideband option.) They usually put out 4 Watts of power, and
have a range of up to 10 miles or more, depending on terrain and antenna
system used. They are invaulable for car-to-car communication and are
usually enough for around town and local communications. They are
cheap, reliable, and easy to install. They can also be fitted with
linear amplifiers, devices that will boost the peak output power to 25,
100, 500, or more Watts, greatly improving range.
CB's are best mounted under the dashboard, where it is easy to run
wires and they are not easily seen. A large selection of antennas can be
had at any Radio Shaft or good electronics store. Antennas range from
small, magnet-mount affairs, up to 102" quarter-wave whip antennas.
Choose your antenna based on your type of vehicle and how inconspicuous
you want to be. The larger antennas perform best, but are less convenient. The magent-mount type do not do
well. A good comprimise is a 48" fiberglass antenna, mounted to the
bumper or trunk-lip. This can be removed and stowed when not needed. Be
sure to tune your antenna after installation, with an SWR meter. Often
the dealer will help you with that.
CB"s cost anywhere from $40 to over $200. Linear amplifiers usually
go for about $1.00 per watt. Antenna cost is in the $10 to $50 range.
o PA (Public Address) System. This has to be one of the best items to
have around. It is excellent for getting rid of tailgater's, people who
will not move, and people who are being assholes. It is also good for
signalling and getting the attention of other people.
The easist way to add a PA system is to buy a CB that has one built in.
After installing the CB, buy an 8 Ohm loudspeaker, mount it, and plug it
into the "PA Speaker" jack. Try to mount the speaker on the side opposite
the driver and far forward (i.e. wheel well) to avoid feedback. More
powerful PA systems can be bought for mobile use, but they are expensive.
The 4-Watt output from the CB is usually sufficient and can be heard even
by people driving at Freeway speeds. CB's with the PA option can be
purchased for as little as $40.00, and speakers can be bought for
$10 to $20.
o Radios in the 2 meter HAM and Business band are available for mobile
use, and probably provide the best range and coverage, especially with
the many repeaters in operation. Use is governed by FCC laws, and a
liscense may be required. Price: Expensive.
-/-/-Alarms-/-/-
Alarms provide security and convenience, and can help YOU respond to
your car being tampered with. Alarms come in many styles and types,
and features vary. Top end alarms can unlock your doors, turn on your
lights, and even start your vehicle, all from the keychain. Avoid
alarms that do not have a transmitter-keychain for arm/disarm, as
the type with the key, or that require insertion of the key in the
ignition to disarm,can be quite a pain the ass. Good names in
alarms include Clifford, Crimestopper, Viper and other brand names.
Avoid cheap alarms, as they are more prone to damage and malfunction.
When looking at alarms, inspect the case, the connectors, the
transmitters, and related. If they look and feel cheap, the alarm
probably is. Features that are good to have include, Ignition/Starter
Kill, door/pin switch triggering, hood/trunk switches, shock sensor,
and power door lock/unlock.
The siren outputs are usually 12VDC, and can be hooked up to various
noisemakers or relays controlling other devices. My car alarm output is
connected to a Bosch 30A relay, which controls a motor-driven "Air
Raid" style siren. High-Current devices, such as that siren, should be
connected directly to the battery with a heavy-duty cable and a fuse.
Installation of alarms, depending on features, can be quite involved
and is often an all-day job. Prices range from $40-$50, for very basic
2-wire models, to $100 on up for more complete features. As for the
noisemakers, those are up to you. My air-raid siren cost $20- at a
surplus electronic dealer.
o For basic security, you can install a simple Ignition Kill Switch for
under $10. Cut one one of the wires going to the 12V side of your
ignition coil and run it to a hidden On-Off switch in the passenger
compartment. With the switch turned Off, the car cannot be started.
Make sure all components are rated for 10Amps. I like to use 12GA
TEFLON wire for maximum reliability.
-/-/-ECM/Counter Measures-/-/-
The category of ECM (Electronic Counter Measures) includes
devices such as police scanners, RADAR detectors, and LASER
detectors. These devices give you information you would not
otherwise have, and allow you to act accordingly.
o RADAR Detectors. These devices pick up on the microwave energy
radiated by police radar speed tracking units and allow you to
(hopefully) slow down before coming into range. The frequencies used
by police are termed the X, K, and Ka bands. The X and K bands are
those most commonly found in hand-held units used at speed traps.
The Ka band is used for Photocop (Robocop,) which is a particularly
nasty technology. The Robocop machine reads your speed with its own
RADAR, dtermines if you are speeding, then takes a picture of your
license plate. You later receive a ticket in the mail, which you
obviously have no way of fighting. PhotoCop is also being used in
some placed to enforce "anti-cruising" laws, writing you a ticket if
you pass by a certain point too many times in a certain period of
time. It is recommended that you buy a detector covering teh X, K,
and Ka bands. The Super-Wideband Ka is a recently allocated band,
which some police are using. Higher priced detectors cover this, but
it is unknown how much of a threat it presents. Detectors should be
mounted high (visor is good) and the power wire should be wired
into an accessory (ignition ON) circuit, with a fuse. Cost for a
3 Band detector is $90 to $200.
o LASER detectors pick up IR pulses from LASER units used by some
big-budget police departments in place of RADAR. It is harder to
detect and is more accurate, leaving less room for argument. LASER
detectors are used in the same way as RADAR detectors, and are
available as stand-alone units as well as combo RADAR/LASER types.
Cost for a stand-alone detector is approximately $100.
o Police Scanners. Scanners are excellent for keeping up to date on
police activity and staying ahead of the game. They are available in
different configurations, with different coverage and number of
presets. One can choose either a hand-held or a mobile type, and
either one can be used with car electrical and a vehicle-mount
antenna, for better coverage. A good choice is a 50+ channel
handheld, which can be out of the car, and a car-mount antenna. The
$25 Radio Shack cellular look-alike is good. 800MhZ coverage is
important if you are interested in cellular frequencies, and also
includes certain police/emergency channels. Check the frequencies
used in your area to determine what bands you will need coverage
for. There are scanner clubs, books, and magazines that can provide
frequencies. Prices range from $100 to $400+ and used ones can
sometimes be found.
-/-/-Miscellaneous-/-/-
There are a few other items that are nice to have available. They
can be useful in many instances, and for various reasons merit being
included.
o Secondary Electrical System. If you have many elctrical drains, such
as refrigerators, high-power radio transmitting equipment, and the like,
you may want to consider adding a secondary electrical system. This
involves installing a second battery and a special charging regulator
(available at auto parts stores for around $30) to supplement your
regular battery. With the module, charge is mainatined in both
systems, and you are almost never in danger of running down your
starter-battery with auxiliary devices. Be sure to use heavy duty
wiring going to the second battery (8GA or even 4GA) and remember that
batteries release Hydrogen Gas when charging; allow some ventilation.
o Annoyance Devices. There are various assorted noisemakers, toys, and
devices. The "Ice Cream Truck" sound track system, for instance, is
available for $20-30 and plays 100 annoying electronic songs. Great for
annoying people and making people run out of their houses expecting the
Ice Cream Man. The possibilites for nuisance devices are, or course,
endless.
o Fire Extingiusher. Mounted in the passenger compartment, a fire
extinguisher is good to keep around, and gives your vehicle a nice
"industrial" feel. The C02 type are the best, as they leave no residue,
but the dry-chemical type is effective and cheap. Cost is $10-50
---
The above pretty much covers the basics for modifying car
electrical. This article should serve only to provide ideas for your
projects; the possibilities for modifying and customizing your vehicle are
infinite. You may wish to incorporate one or more of these into a total
package, with a small panel of switches to put it all at your fingertips.
Whatever you choose to do, just work carefully and with respect for the
dangers involved. Good Luck!
-Arclight '94